Fié Gris, Corps de Garde Gourmande, Domaine Goisot

This rarely grown grape is called Gray Sauvignon in some regions and Pink Sauvignon in others, and is an ancestor of the modern-day Sauvignon grape. It had fallen out of style for a number of reasons, the first of which is its tendency to produce very little grapes. In addition, the fermentation can often times be very tricky. However, in the right hands, it is a marvelous varietal. It is far more concentrated in aromatics than the normal, cloned varieties, and when barrel-fermented it can reach the same level of the greatest Sauvignons from the Loire and Bordeaux.

The nose is quite floral, with creamy exotic aromas of mandarines, mango and some pear. It is very full and long. The wine shows so much breed for its humble designation that it just cries out to be a ringer in a blind tasting of top-flight Sauvignons from around the world.

2004 St. Bris “Corps de Garde”: This is not as ripe as the ’05 version but it’s fresher and brighter with an interesting nose featuring herbal and lychee notes that lead to defined, rich and wonderfully exuberant flavors that are akin to eating fresh grapes. The finish is floral but bone dry and admirably persistent. Again, flat out terrific quality. 88/2007+ (Burghound Issue 24)